In its years as a manufacturer of dyestuffs, Agfa had attempted to faithfully reproduce pigments of nature, most notably in 1878 when it invented the dye Malachitgrün (Malachite green), named after the mineral of nature that bore a similarly intense hue. What would become the company’s most successful colour was used as a dye on silk, wool, leather and paper, but found further application more controversially as an antimicrobial ‘medication’ for fish in the aquaculture industry. As other pigments produced by Agfa were similarly derived, its fuchsin and gentian violet dyes had been named after flowering plants, nature was inadvertently woven into the processes of patenting and commodification of colour.
In 1883 the colour red was synthesised by Paul Böttiger, who at the time was working for the Friedrich Bayer Company in Elberfeld, Germany. His employer took no interest in a hue this bright – Böttiger sooned filed his own patent for the pigment and sold it to AGFA in Berlin. A shift from naming by nature led the company to market the pigment through an exoticised ‘Congo Red’, launched weeks after the infamous Kongokonferenz (Congo Congress) concluded in 1885:
“Since the West Africa Conference was held in Berlin, and the central issue was the Congo—an exotic locale to Europeans in 1885 and a name that was on the tip of every tongue—it is not surprising that a Berlin dye company (AGFA) gave the name Congo to a sensational new dye debuting at the very same time. The name was an effective marketing tool. AGFA filed a patent for a modification of the Congo red dye on March 17, 1885, less than a month after the conference ended; this patent application mentions that Congo red was already ‘well known.’”—David P. Steensma, “Congo” Red (2001)
Despite the wave of proceeding dyes named in similar fashion (Congo rubine, Congo corinth, brilliant Congo, Congo orange, Congo brown, and Congo blue), the earliest red pigment has fallen out of use due to its toxic, carciogenic properties evidence by the use of chemical benzidine.